Australians in Bali for holidays have been left confused by a new $15 tourism tax and efforts by police to enforce payment.
The levy, which is intended to help the island cope with millions of visitors each year, was announced last year after a series of incidences involving visitors desecrating holy sites and behaving badly.
It came into effect on February 14 and could bring in more than $80 million of revenue a year in Bali, which the government says will go towards cultural preservation and environmental measures — such as beach clean-ups.
But most holiday-makers are not paying it, with 60 per cent of tourists in the first month not forking over the money for the levy.
Staff are not forcing arrivals at the airport to pay the fee up-front, and some Australians the ABC spoke to were unaware of how to pay for it.
"I knew about the tourist tax, but nobody asked us to pay it — $15 is not much and if it goes to good use, it's fine to pay," said Rachel Fisher, who regularly travels to Bali.
Another regular visitor, Damien Tout from Melbourne, paid the tax online in advance but was surprised nobody checked the receipt when he entered at the airport.
"It could be another $50, we wouldn't care. We'd still come to Bali," he said.
But others weren't so ambivalent about the fee. On the first day of random spot checks by tourism police at the famous Uluwatu temple, some visitors were left visibly angry by the shakedown for money, as many others walked by.
Among them were families with children who had to stump up $15 for each person.
The ABC observed some tourists struggling to connect to a payment app to pay the fee, while many visitors showed officers their visa-on-arrival receipt, unaware of the separate fee.
The new levy comes after authorities introduced a "dos and don'ts" list at the airport last year, designed to remind visitors to be more respectful towards the island's predominantly Hindu culture.
Bali's plan to crack down on badly behaved tourists
The "dos and don'ts" list told visitors not to climb sacred trees, misbehave in public or wear inappropriate clothing around religious places.
The list was announced after authorities deported a Russian influencer for dropping his pants at a sacred mountain and a Russian woman for posing naked on a 700-year-old sacred tree.
A German woman was also placed in a medical facility after she roamed around naked and busted in the doors of a temple during a traditional dance performance last year.
Australians have also been accused of bad behaviour, with a woman caught on camera berating a local police officer who stopped her for not wearing a helmet while riding her motorbike.
An Australian man was also caught stealing a box of erectile-dysfunction medication from a pharmacy, while more recently, two Australians were hospitalised after they were involved in a vicious street brawl in Kuta.
The measures to improve tourist behaviour are also targeting visitors overstaying their visas or running businesses in breach of the rules.
Many are Russians who have flocked to the island since the beginning of Russian President Vladimir Putin's invasion of Ukraine, with Indonesia a relatively welcoming destination for them.
"[For bad behaviour] we have the list on what tourists can do and what they cannot do in Bali," said I Ketut Yadnya, the head of promotions for the Bali government's tourism office.
"But the levy is different. We want our tourism to be sustainable, and to sustain it, we need to conserve the culture.
"So for that, we need, of course, some money."
New levy designed to help Bali cope with influx of visitors
The gentle rollout of the new levy has been designed not to spook foreign tourists from coming.
Before the COVID pandemic, Bali received more than 6 million foreign tourists in 2019. Post-pandemic, the numbers are creeping back up, with 5.25 million arriving in 2023.
Domestic visitors from other parts of Indonesia last year numbered more than 9 million.
Tourism officials want the economic boost of more visitors, even though locals on the island say it worsens traffic and the amount of garbage washing up on the famous beaches.
"Tourists of course [increase] rubbish, but a clean destination is part of what draws them to Bali in the first place," said Wayan Puspa Negara, a local politician who volunteers with a beach clean-up group.
"So the more rubbish that washes up on the beaches means our destination is less appealing."
To better manage the tourism influx, Ketut Yadnya from the tourism office says the levy will help fund programs like beach clean-ups, including buying better beach cleaning equipment, so that volunteers don't have to do it by hand.
"There's no fine if you don't pay, and tourists can still leave Bali at the airport, there's no problem," he said.
"We just need their awareness when they come to Bali, they have to know that Bali needs something to protect their tourism."
With the scheme still in its infancy, tourism police are offering some leniency to those who have failed to pay.
They have facilitated instant payment for visitors who have not paid, and even allowed them to pay later if they can not provide the cashless payment on the spot.
Locals fear the fee will deter travellers
Some Bali locals dependent on the tourist trade oppose the levy, believing it sends the wrong message.
Hamid Isnaini, a vendor in Kuta, believes $15 a person on top of a 500,000 rupiah ($50) visa-on-arrival fee might drive some visitors to rival destinations.
"They should let people come to Bali for free," he said, as a handful of tourists idled past his store, which displays Bintang beer singlets and boardshorts.
"Before the COVID pandemic, many tourists came to Bali because it was free to enter, but after the borders reopened, they introduced a visa-on-arrival fee."
He believes a second levy on top of that might deter a full rebound of pre-pandemic tourist numbers.
"We should be like Thailand, where tourists can enter without paying a fee," he said.
Other vendors selling clothes nearby agreed with him.
Mr Yadnya acknowledges there have been some teething problems with the new levy, but says the troubles are all part of "socialising" the idea of the fee.
The hope is that in the future, people coming to Bali will know about the fee and be willing to pay it.
"We need their awareness that they also have to be involved in conservation to preserve our culture," he said.
"If in future tourists come to Bali and the culture's been ruined, they won't see anything."
