There are a few keyboard shortcuts on Windows computers that nearly everyone knows: Ctrl + C to copy, Ctrl + V to paste, maybe even Ctrl + Shift + Esc to open the Task Manager, Ctrl + Alt + Delete to bring up the special login options menu, and Alt + Tab to switch windows. But if you use Alt + Tab a lot, you might have run into an annoying bug after updating to Windows 11 24H2 where the Alt + Tab keyboard shortcut results in freezes or an empty black screen. Get Windows 11 Pro for cheap Windows 11 Pro As reported by Windows Latest, this isn’t an isolated incident. Users on Reddit and the Windows support forum have been dealing with this for weeks now. If it results in a black screen, it’ll last for about 10 seconds before finally doing what it’s meant to do. The problem is that Alt + Tab is meant to be a time-saving shortcut, so this massive delay is completely unacceptable. What to do if you’re affected Microsoft is aware of the problem but hasn’t yet offered a solution yet, instead promising a patch for December 2024. Given that this is happening on machines that have updated to Windows 11 24H2, the best course of action if you rely on Alt + Tab all day every day is to postpone updating until this issue is fixed. But if you’ve already updated to Windows 11 24H2, you have two potential ways forward. First, you can try switching off Game Mode, which apparently suffices as a temporary workaround for some users. To do this, navigate to Settings, select Gaming in the left-side panel, then select Game Mode. Toggle the Game Mode setting to Off and see if that fixes the issue. Otherwise, if it’s disruptive enough, you might consider reverting to a previous version of Windows 11. That might be overkill for just the Alt + Tab problem, but it’s worth looking into if you’re also experience other issues in Windows 11 24H2, like network connectivity failures. Further reading: Everything to know about Windows 11 24H2 Read...

Today, the internet has become like water and electricity, a necessity for everyday life and something we take for granted. Most people never think about routers, network cables, frequency bands, and more as long as everything works. But wireless networks — Wi-Fi — are not flawless and few users have never had problems. Common problems include weak coverage in parts of the home, devices being disconnected and having to be reconnected manually, choppy music and video playback on connected devices, and slower-than-promised speeds on large downloads. By optimizing your router’s settings and placement in your home, you can achieve a more stable and faster Wi-Fi network. Often this is enough, but otherwise there is help from different types of networking equipment. Foundry Optimal router settings Different routers offer different levels of customization for Wi-Fi settings, but the vast majority have at least the following settings: Channel width Channel width refers to how much of the available frequencies in a frequency band the communication between router and devices takes up. Narrow channels allow for more channels, which means that several different networks can operate simultaneously in the same location without interfering with each other. But wider channels mean more data can fit per transmission, resulting in a higher overall speed for connected devices — as long as the signal is strong enough. If your router can choose the channel width automatically, this is likely to give you the best results. Some routers can automatically vary the channel width to optimize the network. If you have to choose for yourself, or just want to test whether it can be useful, you can test from the top down — start with 160MHz in the 5GHz band and step down to 80- and 40MHz and see how it affects the experience of devices around the home. If your router supports the 6GHz band, you can probably push a little harder and choose the widest possible channels, but as radio is complicated, it’s always best to test the waters. Foundry Channel – manual or automatic Depending on the channel width, there are different numbers of channels to choose from. For example, with 160MHz channel width there are only three channels, while with 40MHz there are 14 in the 5GHz band. The 2.4GHz band can only use channels of 20- or 40MHz, and the normal one is 20Mz because it can fit three channels without overlap (channels 1, 6, and 11). In houses without interference, 40MHz can work. Normally, it’s best to let the router choose itself as it has a better idea of which channel has the least “noise,” but if you have coverage problems in a particular part of the house and can see that a neighbor in that direction is using the same channel as your router has chosen, you can try a different channel. TP-Link Combined or separate frequency bands Behind the scenes, Wi-Fi over 2.4GHz and 5GHz are completely separate and use different antennas, but normally the router creates a common network name (SSID) to which devices connect. Which frequency band they connect with can either be up to the device itself, chance, or the router (see below). This usually works well, but you may find it useful to choose two separate networks with separate names instead. This can be useful, for example, if you have smart home devices that only support 2.4GHz and are having trouble connecting (which is relatively common). It can also help if you have devices that insist on connecting to the 5GHz band even though the signal is weak due to an obstruction such as a brick wall or some other reason. Lower frequencies penetrate walls better, so the 2.4GHz band is often more reliable at a distance from the router. Band steering On networks that combine multiple frequency bands, devices or routers must choose which band to communicate in. Most routers have a feature called band steering that automates the selection based on various parameters. On newer routers from Asus, you can set how it should choose, but as you can see in the picture below, solid knowledge is required to do a better job than the router, if possible. The Quality of Service (QoS) function balances the network and ensures that no single device takes up all the bandwidth.Foundry If you have a specific problem, such as devices that insist on connecting on the 5GHz band even in parts of your home where the signal is so weak that the internet is slow, you can experiment with the settings. The Small Net Builder website has a good guide to Asus settings. Quality of Service gives all devices a chance Quality of Service, or QoS, is a feature found in many higher-end routers that balances the network so that no single device hogs all the bandwidth. Without QoS, a computer running Bittorrent, for example, with hundreds of active connections, can saturate the connection to the internet service provider on its own. QoS can also be used to prioritize certain types of traffic. Most typical are online games that require very short response times to mitigate lagging. Setting QoS to prioritize games reduces the likelihood that temporary spikes in network activity will cause games to hack. Video calling is also something that can benefit greatly from a QoS service in the router, as it requires both relatively short response times and a steady stream of data. Routers with large processors often do better without QoS than less well-equipped routers. Problems that can be solved with QoS are often due to something called bufferbloat, where the router queues up too many packets and can’t forward them all in a reasonable time. A faster connection won’t help, and incorrect router settings can make it worse. Bufferbloat test results from Waveform.Foundry You can test for yourself how much bufferbloat your router suffers from with tests at dslreport.com or waveform.com. Both give a rating, so you don’t need to understand all the numbers. But in case you’re wondering, it’s all about how much response times degrade when the connection is heavily loaded. Whether you have a lot of bufferbloat or not, you can try enabling QoS if your router has the feature, especially if you experience occasional problems with gaming or video calls. If you can’t find the settings for your particular router, search for “[router model] qos” and you’ll probably get both an answer to whether it has the feature at all and, if so, how to enable it. Change the order of priority in Adaptive QoS.Foundry As an example, take my newly purchased Asus router, which has a feature called Adaptive QoS. Here, I can choose one of five preset profiles that prioritize different things — gaming, streaming, general browsing, distance learning, or remote work. You can also set the prioritization order manually. I should point out, however, that Adaptive QoS is one of several features in Asus routers that require you to authorize security firm Trend Micro to collect data from you. Other router manufacturers may have other similar agreements for certain features. Netspot Map your home and find the radio shadows If you’ve tested out the best Wi-Fi settings on your router but are still having problems with slow internet, or devices occasionally losing connection in remote parts of your home, it might be time to look at upgrading your network. Before splurging on a new, more powerful router or any kind of extension, it’s a good idea to check what the signal strength is actually like in your home. There are a number of programs that can help you with this, such as Netspot. You will need a floor plan of your home and a laptop. Once you have installed the program and launched it, select the Survey tab and create a new project. Here you can upload an image of the floor plan or draw it manually. A calibration function ensures that the distances are correct, and before you start taking measurements, you can choose how large an area each measurement point should cover. I recommend the default setting. Then you simply carry the computer around to different locations in your home and let Netspot measure the signal strength. Click on the floor plan to show where you are at each measurement and on the stop button when you’re done. The results are displayed as a color chart of the floor plan, with warmer colors indicating stronger signals. Areas in blue show parts of the home where the router has difficulty reaching. Measuring many places around your home can give you a good idea of where it might make sense to place an extender, or whether a router with stronger antennas is likely to reach all corners. It can also help you spot poor router placement, and if you move it to a location that should provide better coverage, you can repeat the survey and check whether it actually did. Dmitry Didorov Reduce the load with cable connections If your problems don’t seem to be due to a weak signal, it could be that you are utilising the full capacity of your Wi-Fi network with many connected devices. If you have a large family where everyone watches a lot of streaming services, this can easily happen. An easy way to give the router and the devices that can only connect wirelessly some wiggle room is to connect desktop computers and other fixed devices with an Ethernet cable instead of Wi-Fi. Televisions, games consoles, smart home hubs and media players often have a connector for network cables. If your router doesn’t have enough connectors, you can buy a cheap switch from Netgear or TP-Link, for example. A switch also allows devices connected to it to communicate directly with each other without going through the router, which can further reduce the load on it. For example, if you have a media library on a NAS device and stream from it to a TV or computer and both are connected to the switch, it can have a big effect on the speeds of the Wi-Fi network for other connected devices. Sabine Kroschel Get a Wi-Fi booster, repeater, or mesh Sometimes the only solution to Wi-Fi problems is to upgrade your hardware. There are different options depending on what you have today and what the possibilities are for running cables in your home, for example. Wi-Fi amplifier A Wi-Fi repeater extends an existing network by creating its own network with the same name (SSID). Newer models can connect either by cable or wirelessly. The latter is obviously more flexible, but offers slower speeds and longer response times as devices connected to the extension communicate with the router in two stages. TP-Link Repeater Wi-Fi repeater is the name of an older technology that is not as common today, where a radio intercepts the signal from the router and simply sends it out again. It rarely gets much better and I do not recommend it. Linksys Mesh With mesh routers, you place two or more base stations in the home, where one acts as the main unit and is connected to the broadband. They connect to each other wirelessly but do so either smarter or with separate antennas and channels so that that transmission doesn’t clash with the regular network. For those who have Wi-Fi problems with a regular router and want a simple solution, a mesh system with two or three base stations is often the simplest solution, but rarely the cheapest. Use Netspot to find the best placement of base stations, then just sit back and enjoy. Roadlight Some traditional routers now have a built-in mesh function so you can expand your network afterwards with compatible base stations. Asus, for example, has a feature called AI Mesh, while TP-Link calls its equivalent Onemesh. Both of these manufacturers are flexible with what additional devices you use as base stations, such as another regular router, a mesh router, or a dedicated Wi-Fi extender that supports the mesh system. Unlike regular Wi-Fi extenders, all devices in one of these mesh networks must be from the same manufacturer and support the mesh technology in question. One important thing to consider if you’re getting mesh is to position the base stations so that they have the best possible signal to each other. This means that their signals should overlap but not too much, and there should be as few walls as possible in the straight line between two base stations. Read...

We here at PCWorld, we encourage you to try building your own desktop computer. It’s fun! It’s economical! It’s only very slightly likely to lead to your destroying fragile parts worth hundreds of dollars! All joking aside, sometimes buying a pre-built computer just makes sense. But what’s the difference between a PC sold by an OEM and one sold by an SI? We asked an expert, YouTube build master Braethorn, to break it down for us in the latest PCWorld video. First, let’s define some terms. OEM stands for “original equipment manufacturer,” and in the PC market it refers to companies like Dell, Lenovo, HP, Acer, and others — huge corporations that generally sell hardware all over the world but don’t make everything themselves. OEMs sell desktop PCs (and other designs like laptops and monitors) under their own brands, but generally buy wholesale parts from other companies, like Intel and AMD for processors, Asus and Gigabyte for motherboards, Seagate for storage, etc. OEMs buy hardware (some of which is designed specifically for them) in huge bulk lots, then assemble them into PCs in their factories, load up software like Windows, and package them for sale at retailers. Though the hardware has evolved, this basic process has been going strong for basically the entire modern era of personal computers. On the other hand, SI stands for “system integrator.” Technically, a system integrator does the exact same thing — buys parts in bulk from other companies, assembles them into a working PC, and sells it to consumers. So, why the separate name? The difference between an OEM and an SI is subtle, but can be nailed down by a couple of factors. For starters, OEMs are generally huge corporations that serve multiple international markets, whereas SIs tend to be smaller, more boutique PC makers. (Think Falcon Northwest, Origin, or iBuyPower.) With smaller output volumes, these companies focus on more powerful, more expensive, and higher-margin desktop designs. Another crucial distinction is that even though an OEM mostly gathers hardware from other companies, it still makes a few components itself. OEMs are usually also laptop manufacturers, so they have the resources and supply lines to manufacture some parts themselves, most notably PC cases. Large manufacturers also often get entire product lines — like motherboards, cooling systems, and power supplies — manufactured exclusively for their specific designs. Sometimes these custom-made parts don’t conform to standard sizes or layouts, and they can cause headaches if you’re trying to upgrade or repair a PC. That isn’t the case for SIs. Even if these smaller companies are buying parts in bulk, they’re generally the same PC parts that are available to you as a solo builder at home. Even the PC cases used by a system integrator are generally the same ones you can buy “off the shelf,” though they might have a little extra branding. Technically, all OEMs are system integrators, but all system integrators are not OEMs. But when PCWorld and other tech media refer to OEMs, we mean big companies like Dell. When we talk about system integrators, we mean smaller companies, especially those making PCs entirely from parts that are available directly to consumers. For more all-star guests and insights into desktop PCs, be sure to subscribe to PCWorld on YouTube! Read...

Nowadays, smartphones replace the (video) camera on holiday, acts as a portable music player, has space for all WhatsApp media, and holds audio plays, e-books, and documents. To avoid losing such data, you should create regular backups and your home Windows PC is ideal for this. The home computer is also a good data source, as it often houses downloads, music libraries, and video archives. However, if you want to transfer music, videos, or images between your smartphone and a Windows PC, you are spoiled for choice. There are a whole range of different methods available for this data transfer. Further reading: Best USB-C cables 2024: Get quality charging and data transfers Classic and fast: Data exchange via cable The simplest and quickest method of connecting an Android device to your Windows PC is the classic USB cable. This also offers the highest data transfer speed. Sometimes you can simply disconnect the necessary cable and plug from the charger. You’ll want to then proceed as follows: Plug the cable into the USB port of your PC or laptop and connect the other end to your smartphone or tablet. A request may now appear on the smartphone asking whether you want to authorize data transfer to the connected medium (the Windows computer). Confirm this request. With newer devices, this is now often unnecessary. In Windows, a small window may pop up asking for the desired use of the connected device. Simply select that you want to display it in Windows Explorer. After a few seconds, the mobile device will appear in the “Devices and Drives” field in Windows Explorer (see screenshot below). With a simple double-click, you can now switch to the directory structure and manage files as you wish, just like on a USB stick. You can now also access the SD card of the Android device if you are using one. If you connect your smartphone to the Windows PC via USB cable, it will appear as a storage medium under “This PC”.Foundry Troubleshooting: If the request does not appear in the second step and the smartphone is not recognized as a connected device in Windows Explorer, you should first try a different cable and a different USB port on the Windows computer and, if this does not help, restart the smartphone. Connection still not working? This troubleshooting trick will help If the connected smartphone is displayed in Windows Explorer, but only shows an empty window and no data when opened, then you need to make another setting on the mobile device. A small setting with a big effect: on some smartphones, you first have to authorize data transfer.Foundry To do this, go to the smartphone settings and then to the “USB Settings.” The easiest way to do this is to use the search function. Under “Intended Use for USB connection,” you should now activate the top field: “File transfer/Android Auto.” The smartphone can now be used as a simple mass storage device via Windows Explorer. With some Android versions, you must first select the correct transfer mode. You can find this in the settings under “Developer options” and “USB configuration.” Select the “Media Transfer Protocol (MTP)” or, if this does not work, the “Picture Transfer Protocol (PTP).” With the latter, the smartphone virtually logs on to Windows as a digital camera. Sometimes you have to help: You can specify the USB connection type in the developer options on the Android device.Foundry The convenient way: Data transfer via Wi-Fi If you don’t have a cable on hand, don’t want to mess around with cables, or don’t want to plug in plugs for every data transfer, then Wi-Fi is your method of choice. You have various options here: You can either use an Android file manager with Wi-Fi or FTP support or you can use software (with a corresponding app) that has been programmed for the purpose of data transfer. Using Android file managers for data transfer Let’s start with the file managers. There is a huge selection in the Play Store, so we will limit ourselves to our personal top three in this case: Cx File Explorer: This is by far one of the best and most powerful Android explorers ever. You can use it to turn your smartphone into an FTP server without having to fiddle with settings. Under “Network,” you can activate the “Access from PC” function. The app then generates an IP address including port number, a password, and a user name. Simply enter the IP address in the displayed form “ftp://….” into your browser on the Windows PC and you can copy images, videos, and all other files back and forth. With the CX File Explorer, data exchange between Android and Windows is child’s play.Foundry File manager: You can use this explorer to access NAS or transfer files via FTP. The app also integrates cloud storage, is free, and doesn’t annoy you with pop-ups or adverts. You can also use this app to access your smartphone storage directly from your PC. Total Commander – File Manager: This classic file manager is primarily aimed at advanced users, as the densely packed interface favors function over design. This is just right for experienced users because with a little practice the tool promises particularly efficient handling and almost endless possibilities. Although a few plug-ins need to be installed for data exchange, this is quite simple and free of charge. The app then offers an FTP and SFTP client, supports web folders via WebDAV, and provides LAN access. Plug-ins for cloud storage such as Dropbox, Google Drive, or OneDrive are also available. Data exchange with Windows programs As data transfer is a minor issue with the Android explorers presented here, we also want to take a look at applications that were created solely for the purpose of quick and easy transfer between PC and smartphone. These tools are often even easier to use and offer an extra overview and control. To use them, you need to install a Windows program (free for private users) and download a corresponding Android app to your smartphone or tablet. MyPhoneExplorer: One of the most popular and practical methods for carefree file sharing is the software classic “MyPhoneExplorer.” In addition to the linked Windows client, you also need to install the free Android app, then you’re ready to go. Start the app on your smartphone, then put the device to one side and you can now operate it conveniently on the large PC screen. Important prerequisite: PC and smartphone must be logged into the same network. After the initial setup, you usually no longer need to start the Android app manually, as the Windows app automatically connects to the Android device. The connection can be established both via Wi-Fi and LAN, for example, if the PC is plugged into the router via a network cable and the smartphone is regularly registered in the wireless network. You can now view file structures, formats, and file sizes on the Windows PC in the program’s own explorer and of course create folders or exchange and copy files as required. MyPhoneExplorer can also be used as a phone book assistant, displays the calendar, and acts as a message manager. The tool can also be used with Bluetooth or USB connections and avoids the diversions via remote and possibly insecure cloud storage–a dream for every data protector. The MyPhoneExplorer user interface is clear and efficient.Foundry AirDroid: This program also makes file management between smartphones and your PC or laptop child’s play. An important prerequisite here, too: The tandem between the linked Windows program and the free Android app. AirDroid not only allows you to exchange files, but it can even be used to remotely control rooted Android devices. Unlike the MyPhoneExplorer presented above, however, you have to set up a free account with the provider before you can use it. The tool is an absolute all-rounder. It’s also available for iOS, can mirror the screens of mobile devices, control the camera remotely, and make text messages or calls directly on the PC. Parents can also use “Parent Control” to monitor children’s daily smartphone use, track their location, or monitor app and screen time. Data transfer with Microsoft’s Smartphone Link tool Since Windows 10, Microsoft has offered its own app for connecting computers and smartphones.Foundry Since Windows 10, Microsoft realized that users would like to connect their smartphones to a Windows computer. The free program required for this (smartphone link) is usually already installed, but it can also be found quickly in the Microsoft Store if it is missing. To start the tool, simply click on the Windows icon and type “Smartphone Link” into the search bar. The hyphen is important because if you leave it out Windows will not find the in-house program. Great job, Microsoft. But back to the topic: Start the program and click through the next steps. You will be asked to install an associated Android app, but we will also link it here so it will be quicker. Now all you have to do is scan a QR code from the Windows app with the Android app and the two devices are connected. On the smartphone, you now need to grant the requested authorizations to be able to access your messages, contacts, and call lists. Use cloud storage If you use several mobile devices or are often on the move, then data exchange via cloud storage is probably your best option. You can access data stored there at any time on any number of devices without having to plug in cables or fiddle with pairing and pins. Using cloud storage is also fairly simple and free–at least when it comes to manageable amounts of data. Cloud services such as Dropbox, OneDrive, and others also all have free Android apps, some of which are even installed on your smartphone by default. Regardless of which service you choose, the procedure is basically the same everywhere: You set up a free account with the provider and download the corresponding app to all mobile devices that you want to use for data transfer. You then log in with your access data and that’s it. As soon as you upload or change files in the cloud storage on your Windows PC or mobile device using the app (internet connection required), you can access an identical database on the partner devices. Such services can also be used on a purely web-based basis, but operation is generally more convenient with the corresponding apps. You have access to these cloud storage services: Box: Box is one of the market leaders in the USA and also offers German customers extensive functions–although some of them are hidden behind the paywall. The service offers a practical daily activity report and gives free users 10 GB of storage space, but only a maximum file size of 250 MB. Download: Android | Windows Microsoft OneDrive: With only 5 GB of free cloud storage, Microsoft is comparatively stingy–other providers offer more. On the other hand, the service has an “online vault” for sensitive data and is comparatively cheap if you opt for the paid plan. Download: Android | Windows Google Drive: Google’s cloud storage scores with good search functions and very fast data transfer. We can also share folders here specifically for teams or groups. The free account offers a fair 15 GB of storage space. Download: Android | Windows Mega: Mega offers a generous 20 GB of online storage, even in the free version. Messages and files are encrypted end-to-end without exception, so the service promises a high level of security. The transfer rates are generally high, but can be throttled for free users at peak times. Download: Android | Windows Dropbox: Perhaps the best-known cloud storage service gives us just 2 GB of free storage space. This is pretty meagre and is hardly suitable for transferring larger videos or extensive music and picture collections. The subscription prices are not exactly favorable, either. On the other hand, there are numerous useful sharing options and interfaces to Google and Microsoft. Download: Android | Windows When all else fails: Transfer via Bluetooth We can also exchange data between Windows and Android via Bluetooth – but only slowly.Foundry If you urgently need to transfer individual files between your smartphone and a Windows device, but can’t use a data cable or Wi-Fi (e.g. on the train or otherwise when travelling), you can also use Bluetooth. However, this emergency transfer method has some limitations. Firstly, data transfer is significantly slower and secondly, you can’t use the convenience of a clear file explorer. You can only send individual files. This is how it works: Activate the Bluetooth function on both devices. On the Android smartphone, this is easy via the quick menu. On the PC, you can click on the Windows symbol and then simply enter “Bluetooth,” whereupon the “Bluetooth and other device settings” settings are displayed. Click on the entry. In the newly opened window, you can now see whether Bluetooth is already activated or whether you need to help by clicking on the slider. On the smartphone, you should now see the name of the Windows PC in the list of recognized or paired Bluetooth devices. To display Bluetooth devices, you can briefly press the Bluetooth icon in the quick menu on the smartphone. With some Android versions, you also need to press and hold the entry. On the Windows computer, you can find your smartphone by clicking on “Add Bluetooth or other device” in the Bluetooth settings. Confirm the pairing request on both devices (you may also see a security PIN that you can use to check the affiliation). You can now send files from your smartphone to your computer using the standard “Send” or “Share” command. To do this, simply select “Bluetooth” as the destination in the menu and then the paired Windows computer. However, this method is only suitable for a few small files because data transfer is not particularly fast. Read...

Developer Flexibits is now bringing its acclaimed calendar app Fantastical to Windows for the first time. The application was originally released in 2011 and was previously exclusive to Apple’s macOS, iOS, iPadOS, watchOS, and visionOS platforms. Fantastical has been repeatedly praised for its look, design, and natural language processing that makes it fast, productive, and easy to use. However, all of that comes at a steep cost: $57 per year. (If you’re curious to try it, there’s a free 14-day trial.) The Verge notes that Fantastical is not yet Arm-native, so users who have one of Microsoft’s new Copilot+ computers will have to run it emulated for now. However, Flexibits promises an Arm version soon. Further reading: Premium PC apps you won’t regret paying for Read...

A lot of raw materials and energy are used to produce a printer. The longer the device is in use, the better in terms of sustainability. With a Raspberry Pi, you can indirectly make older printers network-compatible and also enable printing via a wireless network using a smartphone, for example. What requirements apply The printer should at least have a USB interface so that it can work with a Raspberry Pi. It also makes sense to find out on the internet whether there are current Linux drivers for the printer. If the device works smoothly on a Linux desktop system, it will also work perfectly in the new constellation. When choosing the Raspberry Pi, it may also be an older model. Model 5 is used in this article. The following instruction assumes that you have already installed the operating system (in our case Raspberry OS) on the Raspberry Pi and that you are connected to the internet or local network. All work is carried out on the console, which is called up via SSH from another computer. If a monitor and keyboard are connected to the Raspberry, you can also carry out the commands in the terminal on the desktop. Setting up the print server on the Pi Before you can set up the printers, you need to customize the Cups configuration file.IDG The Cups printer system is required as a basis. This should have been installed automatically by the operating system. Try with sudo apt install cups to install it. If the system reports back that you already have the latest version, everything is fine. In the first step, assign the standard user the right to make changes to the printer system. If you have not changed anything, this is the “pi” account. If you have stored other users, adjust the command accordingly. sudo usermod -a -G lpadmin pi This user must log in later if they want to make changes to the printing system via the browser (e.g. add a new printer). Now some manual work is required. You need to customize the Cups configuration file. This looks slightly different depending on the operating system. The file is located under /etc/cups/cupsd.conf. Look for an entry with “Listen localhost:631” and precede the line with a “#” to comment it out. Instead, insert the line “Port 631”. This should already be standard in newer versions of the operating system. Then look for the instruction “WebInterface”. There should be a subsequent “yes”. If this is not the case, correct this to “WebInterface Yes”. An entry beginning with “Browsing Yes” can be seen near the port specification. Further reading: 10 surprisingly practical Raspberry Pi projects anybody can do Here you add a line with BrowseAddress @ LOCAL This allows other systems to recognize the printers that are connected to the Pi. You will then find prohibitions regarding access to individual directories. These each begin with “”. Add an “Allow @LOCAL” to each of these sections. Then save the file. You must confirm the changes to the printer system by restarting with sudo service cups restart to communicate the changes. Adding a printer To be able to access the setup of a printer as an admin, the standard user you have set up must log in with a password.Raspberry Pi This completes the preparations. All further configuration work can be carried out via a browser on any computer in the local network. There, call up the IP address of the Raspberry Pi and add port 631 (which you defined in the configuration), i.e. “http://192.168.178.183:631” in total. Cups should now welcome you with its start page. Now connect the desired printer to the Raspberry Pi via USB and switch it on so that the system can recognize it. Then select “Administration” from the navigation bar and click on “Add printer.” The system will now redirect you to the “/admin” subpage. There, click on “Add printer” again. If the device is supported by Cups, the printer should already appear under “Local printers.” Click on the model and then on “Next.” Raspberry Pi In the following dialog, several fields are waiting for input or confirmation. These are the name of the printer, as it will also appear later under Windows, a description, and optionally a location. Activate the option to share the printer in the network. Only then can it also become a network printer. In the next dialogue, select the manufacturer, accept it, and select the appropriate model from the list. If the exact model name is not available, try a model that is as close as possible to the actual model. Confirm the details. The printer will now be added. Printers under Linux and Windows Providing the connected printer as a network component does not solve the problem that there must be drivers for the device for all client operating systems that are to use the printer. This looks good for Linux insofar as the printer can be set up on the Raspberry under Cups. The way to set up the printers connected to the Pi differs between the distributions. Under Ubuntu, it is best to enter “printer” in the search field. Click on the result and “Add printer” to go to the page of available printers. If the share does not yet appear here, click on the “Add printer” button. Select the model and click “Add.” The search for a suitable driver begins. This is usually successful and no further steps are necessary. The driver is installed and added to the list of known devices. If there are any problems here, click on the cogwheel in the list of printers and then on “Printer details.” You can repeat the search for drivers in the following dialog. If you have a PPD file for the device, this can be uploaded using the button of the same name. Alternatively, you can search the internal database of drivers sorted by manufacturer and search for the model there. To ensure that the accessing computers can handle paper formats, color definitions, or special options, you must also set up the appropriate driver locally.IDG In Windows, enter “Printer” in the search field of the Start menu to find the shortcut for setting up the printer. Then click on “Add device” in the following dialogue. Windows not only queries the local interfaces, but also searches the network for shared printers. Wait a moment until the list is complete. Then press “Add device” next to the desired device. Now you have to wait a moment until the OS has synchronized the printer with its driver database and established a connection to the device. In the event of an error, the same applies as with Linux. You will need to search the internet to see if there is a special Windows driver for the model. With laser or inkjet printers that can process the usual paper formats, manual intervention is rarely necessary today. Printers under Mac OS and Airprint Thanks to Cups and Raspberry, the original software also accepts the label printer on the Mac via the network. IDG On the Mac, go to System Preferences and then to the “Printers & Scanners” section. In the following dialog, click on the plus sign on the left-hand side to add a printer. As the necessary Apple protocol was also installed during the installation of Cups in the current versions of the Raspberry OS, the printer should be found with the name used under Cups. Now you need to tell Mac OS which driver you want to use. To do this, click on “Select software” under “Use.” In the following list, decide on the desired model. Apple has also remained true to itself with regard to printers and has developed its own protocol for wireless printing with Airprint. It is based on the “Bonjour” service that has been around for years. In order for a printer connected to the Raspberry Pi to be used as a “network printer” via Airprint, the “Avahi Daemon” must be running on the system. Depending on the version of the OS used on the Pi, this must be installed manually via the package management. In the current version, this is already done thanks to the installation of Cups. If you have an iPad or iPhone in your home, you can easily check the correct setup by using the share function in an app and then selecting “Print.” You should then be able to select the printer there. Example scenario with Label Writer A Dymo Label Writer has been working reliably at the author’s workplace for some time — albeit connected directly to a local computer. Other members of the household have not yet had access to it. Thanks to programs such as Lprint, the device is supported by all operating systems. With Raspberry, Cups, and the latest drivers, this is now changing. To be able to access all models when setting up under Cups, first install a package with additional drivers from the manufacturer. This is generally good advice for printers from all manufacturers. Using apt install printer-driver-dymo the package is loaded (with PPD files), installed, and integrated into Cups. Once this preparatory step has been completed, we set up the new printer as described above. Layouts, label selection, and thus communication with the printer are then handled by the application software. The printer should then be available as soon as you have set it up on a client. Unless the program uses its own proprietary approach. For special printers, you will have to search for a PPD file manually, as different paper and media formats are used. Without a PPD file, the printer can probably be addressed and the printout may also start. However, the result may then be that an A4 test page is reduced in size so that it fits on an address label. Read...

You might think that simply having upgraded from Windows 10 to Windows 11 means you’re getting the latest and greatest Windows experience. But the fact is there are many hidden features within Windows 11 that can boost your experience even further, if you know how and where to find them. Whether it’s speeding up performance or improving efficiency or recoverying from a crash, the following tips can help you optimize Windows 11 like a power user. Tip 1: Use Windows 11 without a Microsoft account Microsoft is making it increasingly difficult for users to use the operating system without a Microsoft account. This also applies to the new version 24H2. We have already dealt with this topic in a separate article. get windows 11 pro for cheap Windows 11 Pro With Windows 11, it’s possible to start a command line with the key combination SHIFT F10. By entering oobe\bypassnro Windows 11 bypasses the online constraint. After entering the command, the installation restarts. If this does not work, try the Rufus tool to create an installation disc that allows local user accounts. Another trick, which does not work with all installation files, is to enter a nonexistent email address. Windows 11 Pro and Enterprise are somewhat more flexible than Windows 11 Home when using local accounts. Here, the message “Set up for work or school/university” appears during installation. You can then select the option “Logon options” and finally “Join the domain instead.” You can then use a local user account in Windows 11 Pro/Enterprise; a Windows domain/active directory is not necessary. Tip 2: Dev Drive can speed up access to storage drives If you are a little more experienced and want to speed up access to your drives significantly, you can set up a dev drive in Windows 11. The ReFS file system is used for this. A dev drive can significantly increase access to data through internal system settings, depending on the respective environment. To set up a dev drive in Windows 11, at least 8GB RAM (preferably 16GB RAM) and 50GB free storage space are required. Whether the installed version of Windows 11 already supports the Dev Drive can be checked in the settings under System > Storage > Advanced storage settings. Here you will see the option “Create a developer drive” under “Disks & volumes.” Foundry Developer drives are particularly interesting for advanced users and not just for developers. Tip 3: Simply install Windows 11 over the network using PXE and iVentoy With the small and free tool iVentoy, you can easily install Windows 11 on several PCs via the network. To do this, boot the relevant PC in network mode and use PXE. PXE (Preboot Execution Environment) enables private users and small offices to install operating systems such as Windows 11 directly on a PC via the network without the need for a physical installation medium such as a USB stick or DVD. To do this, a PXE server is set up on the home network, which provides the client computer with the Windows 11 installation image when it is started via the network. This is done using iVentoy, which simply needs to be started on a Windows computer. This method saves time if several computers are to be installed simultaneously and simplifies the process as no physical media needs to be distributed. PXE offers an efficient solution for the centralized management of operating system installations, particularly for small offices with multiple devices. The PC searches the network for a suitable server and finds iVentoy when the tool is started. You can then transfer the installation files to the new PCs via the network and install Windows 11. The tool also supports the installation of Linux over the network via PXE. Thomas Joos You can also experiment with iVentoy at home. The tool is not very complex to use, but does require some familiarization. Tip 4: Quit programs that hang more easily It happens from time to time that a program stops responding. In most cases, you then switch to the Task Manager, but this does not always work. The Task Manager is not always easy to access, especially when games or other programs are in full-screen mode. Normally, you use the context menu of the taskbar or the key combination Shift + Ctrl + Esc. In Windows 11, it is even easier to activate the “End task” option under System > For developers. The new “End task” command is then available for all programs in the taskbar. This is much quicker to access than the diversions via the Task Manager. Foundry Tip 5: Prevent bloatware during new installations of Windows 11 Unfortunately, Microsoft is increasingly installing bloatware on your computer with Windows 11. Bloatware refers to pre-installed software on devices that is often unnecessary and takes up system resources. With Windows 11, it is noticeable that many new devices are delivered with additional programs that the user did not request. This bloatware can affect system performance, take up memory, and negatively impact the user experience. While some of these programs can be useful, many users find them unnecessary and uninstall them to optimize the system and eliminate unnecessary background processes. When reinstalling Windows 11, select the “English (World)” option for “Time and currency format” on the “Select language settings” page. In this case, Windows 11 will not install any bloatware. Tip 6: Trigger an emergency restart If Windows no longer functions properly, press the key combination Ctrl+Alt+Del. You will find the icon for switching off the PC at the bottom right. If you hold down the Ctrl key when you press the switch-off icon, the option “Immediate restart (for emergencies)” will appear. Restarting is faster and also works if other restart options no longer work. Windows 11 does not wait for any programs or services. Tip 7: Windows no longer responds or only a black screen is visible The key combination Windows+Ctrl+Shift+B restarts the entire display process so that it can rebuild itself. Windows can then be restarted if the display hangs. In some cases, Windows restarts the graphics card driver, but only if there is no other option. Tip 8: Using the sound mixer Use the volume icon and select the small icon to the right of the volume bar to call up the volume mixer. This allows you to specifically adjust the volume of individual programs, for example games. It can also be opened using the Windows+Ctrl+V key combination. Tip 9: Pause the view of processes in Task Manager If you have opened the Task Manager, for example via the context menu of the taskbar or with the key combination Ctrl+Shift+Esc, you can display the view of processes according to CPU consumption, for example. The processes jump back and forth due to the changing resource consumption. Use the Ctrl key to pause the view so that you can end hung processes more quickly. This makes it easier for you to check the utilization of individual programs in Windows 11. Foundry Tip 10: Keyboard shortcuts for opening Office programs and LinkedIn Ctrl+Shift+Alt+Windows+W opens Word if you have Microsoft 365 installed. Press Ctrl+Shift+Alt+Windows+P to open PowerPoint, Ctrl+Shift+Alt+Windows+O to start Outlook and Ctrl+Shift+Alt+Windows+L to open the LinkedIn homepage. You can also open Excel with Ctrl+Shift+Alt+Windows+X. Tip 11: Are there updates for installed programs? You can find out in the command line If you enter the command “winget upgrade” in the command line, Windows displays the versions of the installed programs and at the same time whether there are new versions of the programs. However, this only applies to programs that can also be installed via Winget. However, you do not need to have installed the programs via Winget. If you now want to update all programs, use “winget update -h -all”. Thomas Joos Read...

Having extra physical storage on hand is always ideal, allowing you to rely less on cloud options and also quickly transfer files between devices. But when it comes to archiving lots of files, bigger is better. And right now, one of our favorite large-capacity portable SSDs is on sale: the 2TB Samsung T9 is down to just $200 on Amazon, which is a hefty 33 percent discount off its original $300 price. Our review of the Samsung T9 SSD gave it an almost-perfect 4.5 score and our Editors’ Choice award, as our expert reviewer praised the drive’s performance, ruggedness, and the fact that you can actually get a good grip on it thanks to its textured surface. Our only real gripe with the T9 was its price, but that’s not an issue when you can snag it on sale like this. “Once the price drops a bit, this high-quality, luxurious-feeling, good-performing, external 20Gbps USB SSD will no doubt be one of our favorites.” The super-fast transfer speeds of up to 2,000MB/s are what make this portable SSD ideal for storing and moving large files, while its versatile compatibility with a wide range of devices — from cameras to computers to gaming consoles — makes the T9 a must-have. All of that is thanks to its USB-C 3.2 Gen 2 connectivity, which will be relevant for many years. It also doesn’t hurt that the Samsung T9 is shock-resistant and fall-proof, so your important data won’t be lost if you ever (God forbid) drop the drive. Don’t miss this chance to get this high-performance 2TB Samsung T9 portable SSD for $200 on Amazon while you can! The other capacity versions are also on lesser sale: the 1TB version is $135 (23 percent off) and the 4TB version is $349 (37 percent off). The 2TB Samsung T9 is down to a great priceBuy now on Amazon Read...

The majority of U.S. homes have an internet connection, and it’s probably not a stretch to guess that the proportion that also has Wi-Fi is close to 100 percent. Anyone who lives in a populated area and opened the Wi-Fi settings on their mobile phone will have seen how there are many networks competing for space in the ether. Modern routers, especially mesh routers, have thankfully made problems with poor Wi-Fi coverage fairly rare, but there are still many good reasons to review your network. It’s not just about security, but also about getting the most out of your internet connection, minimizing lag in online games and protecting your and your family’s privacy. Why not settle for the operator’s router? Many internet service providers lend a Wi-Fi router to customers, while others offer it as an optional extra for a small fee. Of course, it’s easy to make do with it, and it can be cheaper if it’s included. But it might be a better idea to get a router yourself instead. For one thing, it means you can keep your router and don’t have to redo all the settings if you switch operators. Carrier routers are rarely the most powerful, so you can get faster wireless internet with your own. This is especially true if you have many devices and/or a large house or a home with solid walls that weaken the signal. With mesh systems, you can get as many access points as you need to provide a strong signal throughout your home. Security can also be higher, as over the years there have been relatively frequent security flaws in operators’ routers, which are not always fixed quickly. With so many customers using the same router model, such routers become more tempting prey for hackers. Finally, you can get features that aren’t in your operator’s router but that you could benefit from, like vpn connectivity for the whole network or selected devices, separate networks for smart home gadgets, connection of peripherals like nas devices and printers, and much more. Mesh or traditional router? Before you start looking at the different manufacturers’ router models, you have an important question to consider. Do you want a traditional router plus any Wi-Fi boosters, or should you opt for a modern mesh system? A question that has no obvious answer. Mesh routers often have a cylindrical design.Andres Urena Mesh In a mesh system, two or more Wi-Fi routers or access points are combined into a larger, theoretically more robust network. The device you plug into the wall with Ethernet (or into a modem of some kind) becomes the master device and mediates the connection between all devices on the network and the internet. The routers involved communicate with each other and optimize the network so that all connected phones and other gadgets have the fastest and most stable connection possible. Advantages Easier to get good coverage throughout your home Fewer settings to make Disadvantages Fewer settings that can be made More expensive Usually lower maximum speed Traditional router with multiple antennas.Asus Traditional router A centrally located router covers as much of the home as possible — powerful models with large antennas can easily cover a medium-sized house and even reach out into the garden if it has a clear view. If you need more coverage, you need to get an extender. Advantages Less expensive Can offer significantly more customization options Powerful models have higher maximum speeds Disadvantages Can be difficult to reach all nooks and crannies Slightly more complicated settings To make the choice a little more complicated, some manufacturers have software in their regular routers that makes it possible to build mesh systems with them. Asus, for example, has something called AI Mesh. It takes a little more effort to get up and running than, for example, Google’s Nest Wifi, but offers the same benefit of better coverage and can be cheaper. Further reading: Supercharged home Wi-Fi with mesh networking: What you need to know Foundry How to choose a good model for your needs Once you’ve decided on a mesh or regular router, you’ll be faced with a veritable jungle of different models. Even if you stick to the biggest brands, such as Asus, Netgear, TP-link, and Linksys, there are hundreds of models to choose from. Here are the key aspects to look at: Wi-Fi version Wi-Fi 6 and Wi-Fi 6e share the same basic technology, but 6e opens up the use of channels in the 6GHz band, where there is typically less interference. Signals in that frequency band are more efficiently blocked by walls, which can also help improve the signal for your own devices that are in the same room. Wi-Fi 7 is the new version of Wi-Fi that has just been released. It brings higher speeds, both in theory and practice, and shorter response times. It’s not yet built into many computers, phones, and other gadgets, but it’s the technology of the future. Number of bands Routers are often marketed as “dual band” or “triple band.” This refers to the number of radios they have, and therefore the maximum capacity of all connected devices combined. For mesh routers, one of the bands is usually used for communication between the routers involved. Software and updates Older models may be cheap, but they carry the risk that the manufacturer will stop releasing security updates before you want to retire the router. The software in a router needs to be kept constantly updated, making it somewhat safer to choose one of the big, tried-and-tested manufacturers. Another aspect of the software is how much customization the router offers and what extra features it has. For example, if you want to be able to connect a TV or media player via VPN to view content from other countries, you may benefit from a router with a built-in VPN function. Key settings No matter which router or mesh router you get — or if you settle for the one from your operator — there are a handful of settings you should change right away. The way you connect to the router’s admin interface varies slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer. Instructions can be found in the user manual or an accompanying quick guide. Enabling https is even more important.Foundry Enable https Before you do anything else, I highly recommend enabling https connectivity to your router settings. This will prevent others on the local network from intercepting the router’s password by collecting all network traffic. Admin login Change the password to the router settings. On some routers you are forced to do this when you first connect, on others it is optional but something you should definitely do. If possible, I also recommend changing your username. If you have to set a new password before you can enable https, you can change the password again after you have done so for extra peace of mind. Foundry Wi-Fi name and password Once you’ve secured your router’s settings, it’s time to secure the wireless network. The router usually has a semi-random network name (SSID) that I recommend changing. Choose something fun that you can easily recognize, but be aware that others can mimic and choose the same name. A good Wi-Fi password is long but easy to type in — for example, four randomly chosen words. No one is happy about having to type p&g_Kx%qU6s%qq$ewc-= by hand, but “wire underpaid rich banner” is no problem. When choosing the Wi-Fi solution, you also get to choose the security model. Best today is WPA3, or just WPA2 if not available. WPA3 is more secure, but so far too many devices do not support it. Further reading: 5 ways to check Wi-Fi signal strength on Windows PCs Channels If you don’t know better, I suggest you choose “auto” on most of the settings in the router, at least until you have learned more or have tested the network and want to see if you can optimize it a bit. This applies to channel selection and channel width, for example. Internet connection If you get internet via fiber, the router will probably fix the connection automatically, but some operators require a login using the PPOE protocol. You should then have received the name and password from the operator, and can check the instructions from your router’s manufacturer. Switch off WPS, UPNP and NAT-PNP Look for settings for these technologies and switch them off. WPS is inherently insecure and UPNP and NAT-PNP open up your network in a way that can lead to intrusions unless both you and your gadgets do the right thing. Enable automatic updates and you won’t miss any important security fixes.Foundry Enable automatic updates If your router has a feature to install firmware updates automatically, you should enable it. Sure, there’s a minimal risk of the manufacturer releasing a bad update that crashes the router, but in return, you won’t have to log into the router periodically to avoid missing important security fixes. Connect by cable where possible Wi-Fi is handy and nowadays really fast, but the vast majority of routers still have a number of connectors for wired networking with Ethernet. High-end models today don’t settle for Gigabit Ethernet, but sometimes have 2.5 Gigabit or even faster. And the fact is that wired is usually faster than wireless. This is true even with newer Wi-Fi standards that theoretically have higher speeds. For example, Wi-Fi 6/6e has a theoretical ceiling of 9.6Gbit/s, but no real networks are that fast. Moreover, the figure applies to all connected devices combined, and traffic in both directions must be taken into account, whereas Ethernet is so-called full duplex with the same speed in each direction. Stephen Phillips More realistic is to get 0.5Gbit/s on a connected device with Wi-Fi 6, at some distance and with multiple devices connected. With Wi-Fi 6e or 7, the network can use the 6GHz band, where there is usually much less interference. This leads to higher speeds in practice, but even with the fastest routers it is difficult to reach more than 1,500Mbps. In addition to consistently high speeds, cable provides lower latency and almost no risk of occasional slowness, which can still happen with wireless. Connecting devices that have an Ethernet connector — and to which you can run a cable without creating a tangle of wires in your home — gives them a stable connection, but that’s not all. Your wirelessly connected devices will also benefit, as they will have less competition for radio waves. For example, if your router happens to be close to your TV, you can connect your TV, any media players, games consoles, and other wired devices on the same shelf. If you use smart home gadgets, it’s also a good idea to connect hubs like Ikea’s Dirigera by cable. If you don’t have enough ports, you can get a switch. Position your router correctly for a better Wi-Fi signal Wireless networks are delicate affairs whose range and speed are hugely affected by small changes, both to the settings and the positioning of the router. Radio waves are weakened by walls, and the more solid the wall, the worse the signal on the other side. If you have a traditional router, you’ll get the best signal if you place it as close to the center of your home as possible, and preferably not next to a wall. But don’t run a lot of Ethernet cable without testing first. Of course, if it works well anywhere near the socket, you can leave the router there. Smart home gadgets can mess up The default setting on most routers is to combine the two frequency bands into a common network with the same SSID, allowing the router and connected devices to choose which band based on signal strength. Some smart home devices only support 2.4GHz. Further reading: The paranoid’s guide to securing your smart home Therefore, if you have problems with some gadgets not wanting to connect or disconnecting from time to time, try splitting the network into two separate ones, one for 2.4GHz and one for 5GHz. Create a guest network that your guests can use.Foundry Use guest networks if your router supports them If you don’t want to give away your Wi-Fi password left and right, you can take advantage of a feature found in many routers, namely the ability to add a separate guest network. The guest network has its own name and password, and on many routers it is set so that devices on the guest network cannot communicate with other devices on the local network, either on the guest network or the regular one. This means that your visitors can access the internet, but not, for example, your smart home gadgets or printers. Read...

Earlier this month, the massive 2024 update to Windows 11 arrived with lots of new features and improvements along with several removed features and apps. One of the many pain points of that update was just how long it took to install on most PCs. But Microsoft says in a blog post that Windows 11 24H2 is worth installing because it “includes several improvements to how you install monthly updates” which lead to “reduced installation time, restart time, and central processing unit (CPU) usage for Windows monthly updates.” Get Windows 11 Pro for cheap Windows 11 Pro In other words, after updating to Windows 11 24H2, you should experience faster and more efficient system updates going forward. In fact, monthly Windows 11 updates should install 45.6 percent faster and use up to 25 percent less processing power, plus the amount of time you spend in the restart phase could also be reduced by up to 39.7 percent for some computers. Microsoft attributes the faster monthly updating process to three efficiency factors: parallel processing of component manifests, optimized reading and parsing of component manifests, and scalable use of available RAM. It’s just one of the many reasons to consider updating to Windows 11 24H2 — if your device hasn’t been blocked from it. Further reading: Must-know details about Windows 11 24H2 Read...